Wonder Woman Tiara

We asked Methyl Ethyl Cosplay to create a tutorial for us using Black Worbla, and she shared this great writeup for making your own Wonder Woman tiara from the new movie designs.

Materials Used:
Straight pins
Exacto pen
2mm craft foam
Heat gun
Sculpting tools

Step 1:
First things first, using paper, a pen, a mirror, and a reference of Gal wearing the WW tiara, I sketched out my base pattern to fit my forehead in as close proportion to my reference as possible. I then cut the pattern out, folding it in half when cutting to achieve symmetry. Next, I
sketched out the details onto one side of the base pattern to match my reference. I transferred the pattern to 2mm craft foam. I incorporated slits on either end of the tiara for attaching straps to secure the tiara in place for wear.

Step 2:
I tend to make my patterns by way of dissection. For this, I cut the base pattern in half, and cut out pieces from it to make my first detail layer. Once the first layer was cut out, I transferred the detail pattern to foam.
Tip: I like to use pins to secure the pattern in place when transferring them to foam.

Step 3:
Once my first detail layer was transferred, I then cut the pattern once more to reveal my second detail layer. I transferred this to the foam.

Step 4:
I cut all three layers out using an Exacto pen.

Step 5:
I wanted the tiara to protrude outward a tad at the centerline so I heated a small piece of Worbla, rolled it into a thin cylinder, and superglued it to the centerline of the base foam piece.

Step 6:
I then adhered the second detail layer with super glue.

Step 7:
I wanted the edges of the central “V” shape to be thin, so I tapered them some with a Dremel tool.

Step 8:
I then adhered the final detail layer with super glue.

Step 9:
I tapered the “V” edges once more with my Dremel tool.

Step 10:
Now on to the fun part! When working with Worbla, I prefer to use the sandwich method. I traced my tiara outline with about an inch to spare on all sides onto Worbla, twice. I then cut these two pieces out. I heated the Worbla pieces with a heat gun and sandwiched my foam piece between the two Worbla layers with the glue sides (shiny side) of the Worbla each facing the middle (interfacing with the foam). Using my heat gun and sculpting tools, I accentuated all of the foam details beneath and removed the excess Worbla around the edges of the tiara with scissors.

Step 11:
I next made additional details with Worbla and added them to the tiara, adhering and and shaping them with heat and sculpting tools.

Step 12:

Once the detailing was officially complete, I heated the piece once more and shaped it to my forehead.

And she’s built!

Come at me bro.

Lasercut Harley Quinn Hammer

SmallRiniLady used Worbla Mesh and Black Art to create this amazing Harley Quinn hammer, with the details laser cut! She shared the process below.


Laser Cut Worbla – Harley Quinn Hammer

I wanted to build a Harley Quinn hammer with a lace like structure. Laser cutting Worbla has been a very interesting medium to work with for this challenge. It did cause me some structural challenges as its flexibility increases as you remove away material. Yet the level of intricate designs you can cut using the laser cutter and still hold true in the Worbla was breathtaking.

Argyle Panel

Harlequin clowns often use Diamond patterns in their outfits, but instead of having a bunch of individual shapes, how can I mimic that pattern into a single flat sheet. I designed a two layer argyle pattern in Microsoft Expression for the surface of my hammer panel and saved it to a PDF to cut using an Epilog Laser Cutter

It’s a lot of cutting. To do both layers took approx an hour of cutting.
Lots of little pieces to clean up, at the time I didn’t know the maker space had a shop vacuum for jobs like this. ~My poor fingers~

Since my Worbla wasn’t entirely flat, this area didn’t cut all the way through
Although the fibers in the Worbla MeshArt can make your piece sturdier, it also requires more power from a laser cutter to cut through. In the areas that it didn’t cut through, my manual popping out with my fingers did not result with smooth edges but pokey fibers sticking out
Some areas barely cut through so I had to use a knife on it. Luckily the score lines allowed me to keep the consistent pattern through my manual cutting process.

Layer two, using Worbla BlackArt
Time to paint. Painted my Worbla MeshArt to black and my Worbla BlackArt to red. Had I planned better I would have switched the two layers’ material to paint less.
Getting the Worbla to stick together wasn’t an easy job. The extra layers of paint on each surface required the Worbla to be even hotter before the surfaces were tacky enough stick to one another. That caused the Worbla to be super soft and causing the patterns to create impressions into one another; the black diamond started drooping into the open space below causing an uneven surface ~sad face~.
To get the argyle panel to match the exact circumference of my circle faces I used the laser cutter again to cut down my argyle panel down to size.
I did not change my laser cutting settings; not risking the higher heat to melt my project or start any fires. My top layer of Worbla cut through cleanly, but only etched into the second layer.
The etched lines became very useful for guiding my knife, so this step was simple and fast.


I designed a lace pattern to trim my hammer. I wanted the droplet shape to mimic Harley’s collar from her 90’s cartoon outfit. This same lace trim will also show up on my HarleyQuinn Hat
When heating thin cuts of Worbla you’ll end up with a lot of sag which can deform your pieces very quickly. I found that by having a solid base to heat up you can easily stick the cold fragile pieces to the activated Worbla. It won’t stick fully but have enough random adhesion points to be locked in place. Then you can re-go over with heat to create a complete bond.
I bonded the lace to the edge of my argyle panel and painted them white


For the side faces I decided to use Acrylic sheets as it is a ridged material that will provide the stability for the hammer to keep its circular shape. Single sheet of Worbla is too flexible for this but may work if using the sandwich method.
Acrylic sheets come covered either with paper or plastic. This way it won’t scratch during transport, can be drawn on during design, and avoid soot and scorch marks during the laser cutting process. I laser cut out circles with fun patterns inspired by the “POW” phrases from the 60s show.
After removing the plastic covering I used a stamp pad to color the inside of my acrylic sheet to give it a translucent color to help the design become more readable.
The acrylic side faces and the Worbla argyle panel includes holes around the edge. The edges will be laced together with ribbons. This gives the design a bit of flexibility with spacing and creates a seductive look.


The handle of the hammer starts with a PVC pipe which I decorate with satin black and white ribbons creating a stripped pattern.
I measured the pvc pipe with a caliper to create Worbla reinforcement rings (also laser cut) for my argyle panel.
My argyle pattern creates gaps around the hole for the pvc pass through to not be tight. The reinforcement rings removes that issue. One in the inside and one on the outside creates a strong seal.

Hammer Time!




Detailed Wonder Woman Breastplate

Texie Jo Cosplays shared the following tutorial on her Wonder Woman costume with us.

So, here’s how I made my Wonder Woman breastplate!

Cling Wrap
Masking Tape
Acrylic Paint
Heat Gun
Needle and thread
Styrofoam ball about your cup size
Craft foam
I tried to take as many pictures as possible, but I will explain as much as I can!

The Breastplate

Take your worbla, heat it up and fold two squares on top of each other. This will reinforce the worbla so it doesn’t separate when you shape it.

Next, cover your Styrofoam semi-circle in Vaseline. Then, heat up one square and shape it to the semi-circle.
Cut off the excess, wait for it to cool and remove it from the orb. Do this one more time with the other square!
Now you have you boob-cups!

Now, where do we put these? I’m glad you asked. Put on whatever bra fits you best and wrap your chest up in cling wrap, then, cover the cling wrap in masking tape. You should be able to draw on the pattern you want for your breastplate onto the masking tape, or get help from a friend! Cut yourself free of your cling wrap restraints and cut out the pattern you’ve just made.

Transfer it onto craft foam and worbla. I used the technique you can find here for how to reinforce these sections.

Heat up the bottom of your boob cups and stick ‘em on to their designated areas of the base! Now for the details in worbla!

I used scrap pieces of worbla (You are saving those, right?) to make each individual feather, The breastplate alone has over 200.

I individually heated and placed each feather. Start with the lowest level of feathers and place on top until you get to the top. Once I got there, I cut a strip of worlbla for the top laid it on there. The lining of the base is very simple, you measure what you need,cut it out of worbla, heat it up and place it where you want it to be!

After this, I coated it in wood glue as a primer and added the lower levels of the breastplate.

There are stars on the lower levels and I made them by cutting two small squares of worbla and a star out of craft foam and sandwiching the craft foam between two layers of worbla. I used a straight edge to make the sides look tighter.


I didn’t take nearly enough photos of this process but here is what I can tell you.

First, I covered the lower level in three coats of hard, sandable gesso, and sanded them smooth. I don’t have a photo of that on the breastplate, but here’s what that looks like on the tiaras:

I covered whatever I didn’t want to be gold in masking tape, took the sucker outside and spray painted everything else gold. I let it dry, came back inside and removed the making tape and painted everything else red.

You can stop here if you like how that looks, but I chose to add some shading to it. To shade, I used a dark brown and got under the feathers, you can move the paint with your fingers and it usually ends ups looking pretty good. I shaded anywhere I thought there should be a shadow with dark brown, very sparingly, and then on the red sections, mixed red and brown together and dabbed that on around the edges of the brown shading!

To fix this to myself, I sandwiched craft foam and wonderflex, fed it through a D-ring and placed it where I wanted the velcro to run across on either side of my back. The velcro is half hook and half loop so that when you fold it over, it will catch. This holds really well for me! If you’ve got any questions on anything, ask me and I’ll do my best to help!