We’d ask if you’ve seen Hendry’s art – Hendry_DIY on Instagram and Hendry’s Art on YouTube, but at the time of writing this, you probably haven’t. He has less than 100 followers/subscribers, and that’s a shame because he’s doing some really fantastic work with Worbla’s Black Art.
Amanda of Elemental Photography and Design created this piece for display using Worbla’s Finest Art and some supplies from the local discount/dollar store and shared her process with us below!
Sculpting with Worbla – especially off cuts and scraps – is easy especially if you work from a base to bulk up a design. You can use aluminum foil and foam, but I love repurposing other lightweight items from discount stores. Like hollow acrylic shapes like balls or Easter eggs!
You will need:
Easter egg that can be separated into halves
Worbla scraps / off cuts
some paper or aluminum foil (for bulk)
scissors (not pictured)
sculpting tools (not pictured)
Step One: Build Your Base
Take your egg apart and nest the pieces together to get the base angle you want your fish to have. Tape or glue in place – you’re covering this in Worbla later so neatness isn’t a priority. Next build up your base layers with some craft foam, including the lips and any major ridges you want the fish to have.
Step Two: Base Worbla!
Take your Worbla scraps and starting with the largest pieces, heat them up and wrap your fish in them! They will stick to one another and to the foam, and you just want to get everything covered here. Decide where your large folds, gills, and eyes are going to go and sculpt them up with more scraps – you can see the eyes are just a ball of Worbla pressed flat and the flesh around the eyes are just more scraps folded in half to add depth and pressed into place.
Step Three: ALL THE DETAILS
Add more scraps! More layers! Then sculpt with tools – keep your tools wet to keep them from sticking to your Worbla. To blend your seams, hit the area where you have a seam with high heat for a moment until it is very soft, then use a WET smooth tool (like a spoon or curved wooden tool) and using circling motions ‘burnish’ the seam away. You can see how the seams have been blended around the eyes and back in the 3rd and 4th picture. Do this to avoid needing to add primer later!
Step Four: FINS and LIGHT
Create your fins – I did two types, one with 2 layers of Worbla and the spines just pressed in, and two with 2 layers of Worbla and little Worbla snake ‘spines’. The lure is a snake made of Worbla scraps heated and rolled together then sculpted details.
Step Five: Attach Bits Part One
Attach your pieces and blend seams as you have before.
Step Six: THE MOUTH
Start by filling in the mouth with some Worbla to hide the interior. Then paint it! You don’t wanna try to paint it AFTER adding teeth, trust me….
Step Seven: TEETH and final details
Roll Worbla noodle snakes, add points, and then attach as your teeth. Finish any last details like more gills and smoothing seams.
Step Eight: Paint!
I used Jacquard Lumiere paints and pigments for this fish – any acrylics will work but I love the coverage Jacquard gives for Worbla projects! For extra fun you could add some glow in the dark pigments which is something I hope to do later :D You can prime first if you want a smoother surface but I love the Worbla texture on this creature so this was painted unprimed!
Amanda from Elemental Photo and Design created a Stranger Things Demogorgon head for the Worbla Booth at FanExpo Toronto 2019 – and shared the process as a full tutorial.
Want to make your own Demogorgon? Just follow the steps below!
How to build your own Demogorgon from Stranger Things using aluminum foil and Worbla
You will need:
Worbla (preferably Finest Art) roughly 1 large sheet
Worbla’s Deco Art 14oz
Aluminum Foil 2-3 75ft rolls
Step one: gather your references!
The actual demogorgon from Stranger Things is filmed in the dark and as a result it’s hard to see all the details – or sometimes any of the details. I used a combination of images from web searches – official images as well as some artist renders done by fans. If you’d like to see my references, I have them on a pinterest board here.
Step two: building the base.
Decide your scale and start balling up foil. I wanted something close to human size: I created a half head shape, then used balls of tinfoil to form the shoulders and then neck. I used masking tape to help anchor things, and applied more foil once I started assembling everything to build out the neck, the curve of the mouth, and fill in any general gaps.
Step Three: smooth it out!
Get yourself something palm sized, flat, hard and smooth. I used a coaster! Burnish the surface of your creation until smooth! I used some sculpting tools and a spoon to get into some of the nooks and crannies of the muscles I built up in foil. To burnish: press the smooth end of your tool to the surface of your foil and with pressure move in circles, this will squish the foil peaks down and help flatten everything! Remember: any area that isn’t smooth will show up when you layer your Worbla overtop!
Step Four: Worbla!
Once you’re happy with your final foil form, it’s time to apply your Worbla. I used Worbla’s Finest Art, as it has great stretch for the curves and undercuts and I was going to prime much of the texture away.
I worked with pieces about 8×11 in size: heating them up and pressing them into foil, trimming and adding relief cuts where needed. Worbla is adhesive and sticks to the foil, so I worked from the head down, stretching over curves, overlapping slightly at the seams. I didn’t worry about getting things perfectly neat, since a demogorgon is a veiny, meaty mess! You can always patch areas you miss on your first go around!
Once the body was covered, I blended the seams using burnishing once again, this time with the back of a spoon. Just heat your seam or overlapped area with your heat gun, then wet your spoon and rub it in circles with moderate pressure over the seam. It will blend it! You might still see the join, but you won’t be able to feel it – and it won’t show up when you paint.
Step Five: the petals!
I cut these from 2mm EVA foam (craft foam) and covered them in Worbla using the sandwich method. Heating the bottom edges I applied them to the head, and used extra worbla scraps to reinforce the join.
I realized once they were all attached that I had made them too small, and I also didn’t like how flat they were: I took pieces of Worbla cut into rounded skinny triangles, heated them then wrapped them around the edges of the petals, shaping them to have more of a curve and depth as well as more ‘wiggle’ and folds to them. I did this to all the petals , and also heated and shaped the petals themselves some more.
Step Six: sculpting
Now that everything is covered in Worbla, it’s time to go after the details! I went in and emphasized all the muscle structure, added more detail to the chest, blended out the seams on the petal additions, added another layer to the mouth to make it extra gross by creating ridges and dents for the teeth, and generally added all the dimensional details I wanted before I would be painting it. The sculpting was done with wooden sculpting tools, which I kept wet – this keeps them from sticking to the Worbla!
Step Seven: priming
You could skip this step, but I wanted the texture of the Worbla to be smoother before painting, so I mixed my Flexbond 2:1 with some white acrylic paint. The paint lets me see where I have applied my primer, which is handy as Flexbond dries clear, and also acts as a base coat for later painting. This does mean the Flexbond will leave brush strokes if you’re not using a very soft brush (or add too much paint) so be aware of that. If you have any area that has too may brush strokes you can smooth them out with a wet finger later, or add a coat of pure Flexbond as a last coat.
I did 2-3 coats of this mix, paying special attention to getting the mouth and inner petals smooth.
Step Eight: paint!
There are a million ways you can paint something like this, so use my method as a guideline and feel free to experiment.
I laid down a dark reddish brown base coat over everything but the mouth, which was painted with a mix of magenta and scarlet. You’ll be applying paint in layers, so you can be a bit messy and also play with mixing colors – some areas I used a more reddish brown, others a more greenish brown. I added a deeper darker red to the centre of the mouth and the petals, blending it out into the brighter reds.
Once your base coat is fully dry and you can’t see your primer, you can add your ‘skin’. I mixed a greyish, purplish tan and dry brushed that over the whole of the design, picking up the raised areas (and avoiding all the shading I had already done). If you mess up you can always go back in with your darker brown later.
Once that was done and dry I added a bit more in the shadowed areas, and also dry brushed some green for an extra sickly cast to the whole thing.
Step Nine: TEETH!
Worbla’s Deco Art makes great teeth pretty quickly without a mold! Take your pellets and heat them in hot water until they turn translucent, then knead them together and then flatten it in the bowl to keep them warm.
I worked with a bowl of hot water and a bowl of cold water. In the hot water was the Deco Art, where I’d pull a small amount out and then shape it into a sharp tooth between my fingers, and then drop it into the ice water. The ice water is important as Deco Art will ‘sag’ if you let it cool in room temps and I wouldn’t have gotten the sharp point I wanted for my teeth. I made about 180 teeth at first and had to make more later, and also realized I needed to make a lot more teeny tiny ones, so plan for a long tooth making session!
The teeth harden in about 30 seconds in the cold water so I set them on paper towel to dry completely.
Step Ten: sealer!
I used a satin finish and a gloss finish clear coat on the Demogorgon to get the best result. The mouth and petals were given several heavy passes of gloss where I didn’t mind if it dripped or ran a bit, and the body and back of the petals were coated with 2 coats of satin finish, to help prevent the paint from chipping and scratching in transit. (no photos, I forgot!)
Step Eleven: TEETH pt 2!
I attached all the teeth with hot glue because it was easy and I needed it to be quick. The downside is they’re not the most secure and if the teeth get knocked with force they’ll pop off the gloss coat, but I don’t mind having to reattach the occasional tooth. You could use an epoxy adhesive instead if you had more time, or even a silicone could potentially work (please test first I am not sure about silicone and spraypaint).
Why did I attach the teeth last? Because having to paint inbetween the teeth would have been UTTERLY TERRIBLE and messy and I wanted this build done in a week, not half a year.
I found it was hard to keep hold of the teeth, so I put them in a bowl and coated them lightly with a bit of hair spray. This gave them just enough texture I could keep my grip for glue.
Congratulations! You have a creepy, decently durable, fairly lightweight (ours comes in at 5 lbs) demogorgon you can terrify your friends and family with.
When we see unique flowers made from Worbla, it is always exciting. When those flowers are Princess Zelda’s favorites in Breath of the Wild, we just have to share! Take a look at this lovely Silent Princess made by Sayuri. She included a video on her process if you want to make one of your own!
If you’ve wanted to make a Heihei of your own – or any other Disney Creature Companion – Gladzy Kei’s process of using Worbla and Apoxie Sculpt is a fantastic way to achieve a sturdy friend to take on your next photoshoot!
Gladzy used her Worbla Scraps to create the base for her Heihei, then coated that base with Apoxie Sculpt to create the details. You could also use more scrap Worbla instead of Apoxie Sculpt – it all depends on the finish you want at the end!
You can see the video of her process as well! (Note: Gladzy works with bare hands with her Apoxie Sculpt: we absolutely suggest you use gloves, as indicated on the instructions, as Apoxie Sculpt will absorb into your body and eventually give you a very nasty allergic reaction with repeated use)
Nightshift Cosplay created this tutorial showing how to sculpt your own little toothless dragon.
First: Gather materials
First of all, these are the materials you need to build your dragon a cat for your amusement (not necessary) 2 cabochon Stones for the eyes nail polish styrofoam balls acrylic colors Worbla scrap material
Step 1 – The eyes
First, start painting the eyes. You can use black or a dark blue for the pupil. In the second step i added some sparkling nail polish for a better background.
You also could use some additional white for eye highlights.
Step 2 – The Head
Now we start with the basic shape of the head. You can use a small styrofoam ball and cover it with worbla.
Then i start modeling the first details and the simpler shapes of the head.
Step 3 – The Head details
Now its time to add some details like the spikes.
Just heat up little parts of worbla and roll them into little cones and attach them.
Step 4 – The body works
Now it’s time to start building the body of our little dragon.
You can use the same technique we already showed you at the headpiece.
Just use a tyrofoam shape and start covering it with worbla.
Step 5 – The Extremities
After building the body toothless need arms and legs.
Therefore, you have to attach the limbs like it’s shown in the picture.
You can also use this step so start smooth out the surface of the body.
Step 6 – bringing the parts together
Now it’s time to put the head and the body together. Just heat up the contact surfaces and make the two parts stick together.
It really starts looking like our little beloved friend, but a few steps are still missing.
Step 7 – The wings
Of cause our dragon need some wings. Just roll out some more heated worbla and cut out the form of your wings.
Then you quickly press the two inside lines on your form.
In the last step you just make a little roll and attach it to the upper edge as a bone.
Step 8 – bringing the parts together
Now it’s time to attach the wings to the back. At this time it’s also recommended to attach the tail. The tail is also needed to make this dragon stand. So make sure the tail is likely even with the feet.
To build the tail you can attach a rolled up piece of worbla to the back!
Step 9 – The Painting
Painting toothlees is easy – obviously he’s black! So you mainly just have to prime him in a dark black.
But don’t forget the red tip of the tail!
Step 10 – The Shading
Just the black priming make toothless quite flat, so we need some shading to make him more natural. Mix white and black to get your favourite highlight.
You can use different shades of grey and make some shading like in the pictures shown.
Final Step – finishing
Now most of the paint is done! You can add some dragonscales by simply adding some drops of clear coat on the body.
A new dragon is born
There he is, our little heartwarming toothless.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you got any questions, feel free to ask and visit me.
Melting Mirror created this creepy and lifelike glowing heart with TranspArt and shared the process with us!
Want to be a villain in the Once Upon a Time universe but you don’t want to get your hands dirty? Well, I have to tutorial for you!
TranspArt (available at Cosplay Supplies)
iDye Poly red
Vaseline (or mold release)
Glass paint (I use Pebeo)
Sheer red fabric (I used a veining lace)
STEP 1 – Dye the TranspArt
Cut two pieces of TrasnpArt large enough to cover half the heart. An extra 2 inches on each side is plenty. In a pot – specifically used for dyeing and not one you’ll eat in later – bring water to a boil, add dye and intensifier. Mix contents until dispersed then bring to a simmer. Add one sheet of TranspArt and let soak while keeping it submerged. Keep in water for about 10 mins or until TranspArt is properly tinted. Then repeat for the second piece. (You can see more info about dying TranspArt here.)
STEP 2 – Vacuumforming
Check out this video by Naruvien Art & Design as a primer for the process.
Cut a circular hole slightly smaller than your vacuum hose opening into some stiff cardboard. Apply some Vaseline to your fake heart and to the cardboard to prevent sticking.
Preheat the TranspArt till it’s soft. Start up the vacuum and place the hose below the hole, place the heart over the hole and the TranspArt above that. Use the heat gun to continue to soften the TranspArt. It will reach a point where the plastic will stick to the cardboard on all side and the last of the air will be sucked out causing a tight seal. Continue heating till all the folds and creases are defined. Be careful not to overheat the plastic or else it will bubble and melt.
Let the plastic cool a little before popping the heart out. Repeat this process for the other side of the heart.
STEP 3 – Trim and Paint
Cut off all the excess plastic around the edges. For one piece cut the plastic along the halfway point of the heart. For the other piece leave a little extra so that you can overlap the pieces essentially snapping them together so that you don’t need to glue them together.
Paint the inside of the TranspArt with glass paint – I use Pebeo Vitrail paint – to define the details. I used a dusty pink colour, but anything pink, orange, or red will do depending on the look you are going for. Let dry for 8 hours.
STEP 4 – Stuffing and Lights
I used some bright red vein-like lace as stuffing in the heart to diffuse the light and to make the heart more opaque. Other materials you can use are: chiffon, curtain sheers, organza, or anything sheer and red.
Insert a little red LED inside and you are done! See the before (the prop heart) and after photo below.
I wanted to try my hand at dying TranspArt and then turning those pieces into a flame prop for photos. If you want to make one yourself, these are the steps!
Step One: Cut out some basic flamey shapes out of paper. Use them to get an idea of how big you want your finished piece to be.
Step Two: Cut out the same shapes in your TranspArt.
Step Three: Dye your TranspArt. For a tutorial on dying, click here!
Step Four: Heat your pieces one at a time, then pull, stretch and pinch them to help make your individual ‘flame’ shapes.
Note: Costumes by Cassandra used this tutorial to create her own flame for her Lup costume, and shared a great trick with us regarding shaping: aluminium foil!
I asked how she acheived the effect and if the foil sticking to the TranspArt was an issue, and here was her response:
“So if I tried to move it off the foil while it was warm it got a bit sticky, which I played with because it did cool things to the tips of the flames, but for the bodies of the flames, I let it totally cool before I moved it and it peeled off just fine. That said, if I overheated the plastic, it stuck a bit, but the foil bits were easy to pick off. There was just a bit of a learning curve to how long to heat it to get it to sink into the foil and do cool things and how long was too long. I made a few extra pieces assuming I’d mess up a bit.”
Step Five: Heat and shape your pieces around one another, pressing the bottoms together. (I shaped mine around a small ball of parchment paper to help keep the middle open.) If you have trouble joining pieces, you can use hot glue for this. If you want a handle, I used a strip of TranspArt and then covered it with thin peach spandex.
Congrats, you have a hand flame thing! You can also build an LED into it for additional effect. (I just tucked a red LED under mine for photos)
Archangeli shared how she created the fantastic armor for her Dollfe Dream Sasara Kusugawa that took 2nd place at Anime North’s Doll North Masquerade
When Volks announced last December that they were re-releasing Dollfe Dream Sasara Kusugawa from ToHeart2 I was hoping that they would release her Valkyrie version. Since they didn’t, I did it myself ;)
I patterned & created the armor from scratch over the past few weeks. Everything was made to fit the DDdy3 body perfectly but still have flexibility to move & pose the doll. There are a few things I want to edit (the way the skirt hangs bugs me and the white sleeves aren’t puffy enough >_<“) and I do plan on making her shield & halberd later this summer.
The armor is made using Worbla. Worbla looks like this before priming. It’s a thermoplastic that’s infused with glue so it bonds to itself. I didn’t need to use any kind of special adhesives.
I used aluminium foil to protect the doll parts from my heat gun – and also to prevent glue residue from sticking to the doll while the Worbla was heated. It looks like I’m baking weird cookies :P
Worbla has a bit of texture to it, which is why you should prime it and then sand it to get a nice smooth finish. Thank goodness for my rotary tool and my dust eater fan (LOL – I use these for my nails usually! Good to have another purpose for these tools!) It took between 5-12 layers of gesso to get a workable surface for sanding. I was literally waiting for paint to dry @_@”
Everything was then painted with Vallejo acrylic model paints. (The same stuff Volks recommends for their model kits and Chara-gumin kits now). I like that it’s water-based & non-toxic, and extemely pigmented. Sometimes one coat was all I needed for complete coverage, which is amazing. With craft store paints I always need 2-3 coats! I was working on a deadline so not waiting for paint to dry was really helpful. Vallejo doesn’t make the exact blue I needed for most of the armor so I had to mix small batches at a time as I went. Since the paint dispenses in drops it was quite easy to measure out what I needed.
I used their Liquid Gold paint to get the beautiful metallic finish. It’s a non-toxic alcohol based paint that required constant stirring to keep the pigment particles in suspension but I’ve never found a more beautiful gold paint! Here are all the armor pieces – everything is separate because I wanted the doll to still be able to move and pose.
Special thank yous to Puppy52 (chun) for helping me find the perfect fabric to use for the bodysuit & to xoHimitsuox for reference pics of the back of the armor and the late night motivation!
I’m so pleased to have won 2nd place in the 1:3 category at the Doll North doll masquerade yesterday! (1st place went to a beautiful recreation of Sesshoumarou from Inuyasha.) I wasn’t expecting to win anything – I just wanted to show her off and spread the Dollfie Dream love!
— Congrats to Archangeli on the win and many thanks for sharing her work with us!
—Coregeek Cosplay shared this awesome build of Dancing Groot with us! Take a look at what they built!
My family and I saw Guardians of the Galaxy opening day! We all agreed Groot and Rocket stole the show. (They had a great Han and Chewy vibe going.) By the time sprout Groot (baby, sappling?) showed up dancing at the end, I was hooked! I knew I had to build one.
Here’s my work in progress (WIP). Sorry I didn’t take a lot of photos. I get involved in a project and forget to stop and take them.
For reference I used a recorded screen shot from the film. I wanted to make him in the pose where he is “frozen” during the dancing. For this post, I couldn’t find the actual one I used. This photo is a bit clearer in quailty than the best I could find only a day after the film was released.
I’ve been working with Worbla lately, and I decided Worbla’s semi-rough texture would make great tree bark.
I started with the face and made a backing out of EVA foam and covered that with Worbla. I wasn’t totally satisfied with the shape (or lack there of) but thought it was good enough to press forward. The main body “stick” is also made from scrap Worbla.
His overall shape is tapered so I added various thickness craft-foam then “smoothed” the transitions with hot glue. The upper parts of the arm are wooden dowels. I wanted them to have a little more strength.
This is where I neglected to take photos. I first added many pieces of scrap Worbla strips and covered the full body, to simulate bark. Then I made several Worbla “vines” and attached those for the added dimensions. I situated them to wind up around his arms and create his fingers.
The Worbla face was really bugging me and seemed more creepy than cute when compared to the source photo. So I did a little surgery.
I reworked the face with Apoxie-Sculpt and felt it captured the character much better. I haven’t done much sculpting so I enjoyed the practice. The Apoxie-Sculpt allowed me to add more detail which made me much happier.
I primed the Worbla with a couple coats of Shellac then painted with 3 shades of brown acrylic.
The leaves are made from 1mm craft-foam. I scored lines in each leaf with an x-acto knife then applied heat which opened the lines and curled the leaves perfectly. (I learned about the heating EVA lines trick from Will @ WM Armory only a few days ago.)
The matching pot is a cut down yogurt container panted white.
Thank you for reading if you got this far. Not a super technical build but it was fun and I’m quite happy with the results.
You can find me on Facebook, Twitter and Tumblr where I often post WIP’s of props and cosplay I’m working on.
—Thanks again to Coregeek for sharing this build with us!