Actoutgames used our Belt Buckle Tutorial to create their own, in this fun video showing the process below.
Find more by Actoutgames on their YouTube Channel.
Anna Stasia shared her X-Men belt buckle tutorial with us.
I recently bought some worbla and I’m hooked! I love this stuff. I made two different things, so I’m going to make a tutorial for both. The first, this one, is an Xmen/Xforce belt buckle.
First, if you can, get a picture or stencil and print it out. It will make your life much easier. Otherwise, you’ll need to sketch your design.
This is the one I used. I had to resize it in order for it to be the size I wanted. Just play around with some scrap paper and print it a few sizes until you get one you like. Print two copies. Then, cut it out (just the circle).
Use these to stencil and cut it out of craft foam. You need a copy of the big circle, and then draw a second copy of the big circle, with the little circle drawn inside it. This will be your outer border.
Then, use your smaller circle to make the X. What I did was fold in half and score, then fold in half again and score so I have a center. Then, marking 1/2 cm out from the line on both sides, I made my X.
Now, you can glue this together, or just place it together for the worbla stage. I didn’t glue it and it turned out great. If you’re clumsy, or shaky, you may want to glue it. Either way, it should look like this:
Onto the worbla! What I did was cut a circle the size of the whole, then cut one slightly bigger than the whole. I actually just traced my large circle twice, cut one out perfectly, the other cut out around a bit.
Use manufactures directions for heating worbla. What I did: cookie sheet covered in foil, on the top of my stove. There is a shiny and rough surface to the worbla. Shiny side up on your smaller circle. Then put down your craft foam version. Larger circle shiny down on that. That is how your sandwiching should go. First, your small circle. Shiny side up on your foil. Heat with heat gun. When it turns a caramel color, place your large foam circle on top (or the whole thing if you glued it together). Then, assemble the rest of the foam (if not glued). Heat your large circle (shiny side) then place shiny side down onto your foam. Use your fingers to work into grooves.
Let it cool completely. Now, you need to smooth it out. People recommend gesso. I didn’t have any and wanted to paint it during my days off, so I used a couple coats of wood glue. Seemed to work fine for me.
Sand smoother with two grits (at least).
Once smooth, prime and paint. I used plastidip to kind of smooth it even more.
Then, I did an allover coat of black paint. Then painted in the red and
silver. Finally, a top coat of polyurethane (I used a spray can
version). Done! To attach, you can hot glue it to a buckle, or do like I did (sorry no pics :-/): Take a rubber band and fold in half (like you’re using it, not actually folded). Using a scrap piece of worbla (small), heat with heat gun, place rubber band on back of symbol, place heated worbla over. Once cool, you know have a rubber band attached to your buckle. Now, you can just slip it over the belt! And since it should be used with a thick tactical belt, it should be snug enough. Hopefully that made sense. I spaced on taking pictures of it.
Naraku Brock shared this great tutorial with us on how she made the belt pieces for her Lady Loki costume.
What do you need:
– pencil, scissors or a knife and maybe paper
– heat gun
– acrylic paint/ spray
– sandpaper and spackle
– basic model/form ( a shape you are copying with worbla)
How does it work, step by step:
Keep your materials and basic models ready. Here you can see the light brown Worbla’s and the basic forms.
Draw a shape or the outline of your basic model.
you’re done? then cut it out – wohooo. (You can cut it easily with a knife or a pair of scissors.)
just a hint: Collect all residues. You can use it later for another project!
Time for the magic weapon: the ultimate heat pistol!
Heat your Worbla’s, it gets soft and pliable.
my second hint: it is TOO hot when your worbla’s is brighter/white and rough.
Put your Worbla’s on your basic model or bend it freehand.
Now you have to wait for it to get cold and solid again.
You should heat all your pieces and bend them into your desired form in one go. This is easier and saves you a lot of time.
You don’t need to do this step, but you can use some spackle to make your worbla’s smoother.
STEP 7 a
If you use spackle, you can grind it down to smoothness with sandpaper.
STEP 7 b
This picture doesn’t show it that well, but you can make out what I mean.
Your goal: make it smooth smooth smooth, like a baby bottom. ^.~
Are you done with the previous step? Now you can use all acrylic paint and spray it as you need. Let them dry very well.
For special effects you can use a second paint to draw on it after the first dried through.
With thanks to Naraku Brock for sharing this with us!
Karin Olava Effects shared this great idea for turning your Worbla scraps into buttons. You can use this idea to make any sort of design, or even make small creatures or pendants (perfect for gifts!)
I have a lot of worbla scraps and leftovers that I don’t really know what to do with. Of course you can shape it into spikes and skull details for you armour, and some ever make new sheets from it. But I’m going to show you how you can make geeky little gifts for your friends! It’s quick, easy and fun!
Fist you are going to need some buttons. I use leftover ones from work. Then gather your worbla scraps, heat and start shaping it into the patterns you want. Because of all the Dragon Age Inquisition updates from Bioware lately, I’ve opted for some Inquisition logo styles. If the worbla won’t stick to the button once it’s cooled down, just glue it down with some contact glue.
When you have your base done, it’s just to prime with woodglue. Some people prefer to use gesso, but for something quick like this I just add three layer of woodglue. After that it all dry it’s just to pick you colors and paint! I use normal acrylic paints. And for a more beaten up look I like to weather my pieces. Here I simple paint on some black in the nooks and crannies and wipe it off with a paper towel. Leaving some paint for a dirt like effects. You can of course go over with more brown tones for a rusty look.
You could just clearcoat them now and be happy, but I’m going about this is typical Dragon Age style. Blood, blood and more blood! >D I like to use Skin Illustrator alcoholic paints in blood tones for this, but normal acrylic paints should do the trick.
Thanks to Karin Olava Effects for sharing this with us!